Tutorial: Fabric Nappy Wallet

This compact little wallet can really be used for anything (finished size is 31 cm x 17cm). It will fit 1-2 disposable nappies, a wipes pack, bags etc. Ideal for when you don't want to take your full nappy bag, great for the bottom of a pram or to keep in the car. There are a few steps involved & it can be a little tricky, but if you take your time it should be easy enough. All you need is:

1. 2 contrasting fabrics 65 cm x 33cm each
2. 1 x 65cm x 33cm piece of iron on lightweight pellon or interfacing
3. 1 x 18cm strip of sew on velcro - cut into 3 x 6cm lengths
4. Matching cotton
5. Sewing accessories & a sewing machine set to straight stitch.

1. Cut your 2 pieces of fabric & 1 piece of pellon/interfacing
2. Iron pellon onto the fabric you will be using as your insert
3. Fold fabric over into nappy wallet position so you can place & pin velcro tabs or any labels/appliques you wish to add.
4. You will need 1 set of velcro tabs on the outer fabric piece inside the wallet as positioned in the top photo of this section.
5. 1 set of velcro each for inside the pockets. They will be sewn on the inner fabric. Be sure to allow for seams so don't place your velcro too close to the edges. Measure all pieces so they will match up and are centred.
6. Once pinned, close velcro tabs to make sure everything is aligned and placed in the correct position.
7. Sew on velcros, labels etc.

1. Sew both lot of ends together with a 5/8 seam, turn in and press. Do not press velcro as it will melt!
2. Match velcro tabs in pockets of opened wallet and turn the whole thing inside out while keeping all tabs in pockets together. Do not worry about the velcro tabs of the top material inside the wallet, you do not need to match these. Flatten out the wallet (while inside out) aligning all seams ready for sewing together.

1. Sew all together along one side of the wallet and then turn inside out to make sure it is sitting how it should be (like when it is finished). If correct, turn back into wrong way ready to sew 2nd side.
2. The 2nd side is a little different because you need to leave a gap so you turn the wallet back into the correct way.
3. Take one end of the outer wallets fabric as shown in the above image and sew up to the middle where you will meet the other layers fold. The pellon & inner fabric to this section will remain open to turn wallet through.
4. Starting at the opposite end to where you have just sewn your outer fabric flap, sew along side seam, sewing pieces together until you reach where the outer fabric flap has been sewn to.
5. Turn your your wallet through and you will be left with one inner section that needs sewing closed. This will not be visible as it is inside the pocket.
6. You can either hand sew this hole closed or like I did - just fold edges in a sew. It will make absolutely no difference to the finished product.

Please feel free to contact me with any queries you may have.

Juggling Rag Balls

Maya*made is a fabulous little blog I follow, which is filled to the brim with craftiness. Today I wanted to share with you a great (& very simple) tutorial link from this blog on how to make juggling balls. Easy enough for the kids to help with and the finished balls will keep them (& you) entertained for hours.

Have fun!

Issue 13 of Mixtape out soon

The next fabulous issue of locally produced Mixtape is due out very soon!!!!!

But in the meantime, I still have a few copies of the Special Edition Kid's Issue available in the online store.

Ok so it's not for kids, its for parents/carers/family members. It contains some crafty things to do with little ones like Tooth Pillow Tutorial, Paper Doll Action Kids Quilt, it has a story on Post Natal Depression , also what it's like to find out you're going to be a DAD, cool things to do in the garden with kids, ACE kids books, & some very ACE mum/business women profiles & much more. 48pages FULL COLOUR $10 available here.

Adorable Japanese Sheep Kits

How adorable are these Japanese sheep softies? This kit from Olympus contains beautiful, quality Japanese fabrics with easy to follow instructions in English. Kit contains patterns, instructions, all fabric, thread for face and kit also includes stuffing. Approximate size: 10.5cm x 14cm x 7cm

Available now in The Haby Goddess online store

'Croquis' is french for sketch

A croquis is taken from the french word sketch. In the fashion world, designers use croquis' in the initial stages of the design.

If you are a budding fashion designer or just love to create your own clothes, then you must get yourself one of these sketch pads.

The Hokey Croquis Fashionflat Sketchpad is a 40 page, spiral bound, pre-printed notebook. Each page has a standard front & back female croquis. The proportional lines of the croquis disappear after scanning so you are left only with your design. A side section is included for notes including fabrics, trims etc. This note pad plus preferred markers are available online at Hokey Croquis

Another fantastic tool is these free downloadable croquis forms from Designers Nexus Inc. There are pages of women, men & children poses for you to choose from.

Threads online has also created a family set of six croquis forms which are a little more proportionate. They include women forms in average, plus sized & petite.

A fabulous find

I often moan about being a terrible thrift shopper. 9 times out of 10 I'll come home empty handed from a visit to the local op shops. It seems everyone is looking for the same thing as me and they always beat me to it! Finding vintage fabrics, haberdashery, patterns & vintage mags always allude me.

But now I've found Suz's Space and she has found a solution for my lack of op shopping ability. This great online store sells second hand & part work magazines, she has a huge selection of subjects but it's the craft section that makes me drool.

Currently listing part works of the 1975 Golden Hands Encyclopedia of Crafts, Suzie has 3 different editions of this series with only selected issues of the 98 parts left - so be quick! The Show me how part series is also available and she is currently listing Stitch by Stitch which I can remember my mum collecting week by week all those years ago. At only $3.00 per issue , that's cheaper the local Salvo's. Postage is really reasonable too.

So get your kitsch fix and learn the basic techniques most of us have forgotton. Button pictures, decorative knots, how to sew suede, mounting cloth on panels, crochet strips and insertions and the list goes on. Visit: Suz's Space and head to the part work magazine section.

Yarn Bombing (knitting graffiti)

I had no idea that when I set out to research Yarn Bombing for this blog post I would find such an amazing collection of works by so many passionate knitters & crocheters.

{This is just one of the many amazing images you will find on the Masquerade blog}

Yarn bombing or knitting graffiti is a fun form of street art that transforms boring & dull public objects into vibrant, creative spaces. Orchestrated by groups of passionate crafters, objects are mostly converted under the darkness of night.

{Image of the beautiful knitted tree is courtesy of OutdoorKnit blog}

Brisbane City Council has recently supported the 'I Knit Brisbane' community with a range of works being displayed during the month of June.

{This image was taken by Datosphere Photography for the I Knit Brisbane project}

A strong blog community of yarn bombers exist as they promote their art. They are beautiful places to visit, so here are just a few to get you started.

1. Magda Sayeg, founder of Knitta Please (represented by one of her images above) has a fabulous blog keeping you up to date with all her latest projects.
2. Masquerade.
3. Outdoor Knit
4. Knitty Graffity A book Yarn Bombing, The Art of Crochet and Knit Graffiti By Mandy Moore and Leanne Prain is a coloured DIY book featuring 20 yarn bombing patterns, interviews and resources on how you too can become involved.

Bicycle Basket covers

A little while ago I shared this image of my daughter's make shift bicycle basket on my Poss Bloss blog. It's her 8th birthday at the end of this month so I've been looking for inspiration to make her own very special one (minus the cardboard box & duct tape!).

I love this custom made liner from Betty Basket Liners found on etsy which I will use as inspiration

& Whip Up has giving me the link to this fantastic noodlehead bike bucket tutorial.

All I need now is some goreous fabric & some spare time.

Friday Haby Delights

• Beach Vintage sells these divine bias tapes with decorative edging.
• Berries on Snow Organza Flowers by Milky Supplies available right here at The Haby Goddess
• The Small Oject creates Saw See Sew Wooden Needle Case Holders
• Tessa Ann's handmade buttons set of 4 in Fruits of Summer
• Tube of beeswax by Overspill - using beeswax coats & strengthens thread for handsewing.
• Needle felted unique pin cushion in a vintage planter by Anna Belle Arts

The fabric clearance continues....

As the fabric bolts continue to dwindle, I have listed three more fabric packs for you. All fabric pieces are 1/2 metre each (so a 3 pack will have a total of 1.5 metres etc)

All packs are now available in the online store

2 Pack of Andaluca by Patty Young for Michael Miller

This great 3 pack includes Alexander Henry's Wings in the Park, Moda's Butterfly Fling & Timeless Treasures Pink Paperdoll

Arcadia by Sanae 3 pack of Moda.

Using a Binder Foot attachment

This binder foot attachment didn't actually come with my machine, my mother in-law gave it to me to try. I sew on 100's of metres of binding so I wouldn't use one of these attachments as the process has become habit for me, but for someone who learning to add binding, this may just be the thing. It does not add the binding in the tradional double stitch way, it is the single stitch method. All brands will have their own attachment so check with your manufacturer. This foot is for a Janome.

• The packet said the binding was to be 5mm maximum width - I used a 12mm single folded bias and it worked fine.
• Before attaching the foot to your machine, add binding down shaft.
• Pull binding through - leave a tail the approximate length shown
• Remove the lower section of your regular sewing foot and add attachment with the binding in place.
• Add fabric between the bias tail and begin to sew.
• Using your left hand, position the fabric & binding together before they are fed through the binder.
• Going slow is the key.
• The result was great. It added the binding evenly on both sides.
• The only tricky part was finishing off - fine if you were running the binding off in a straight line to the end of the fabric. If you were needing a join the binding, it becomes a little harder to finish off. I would have a practise on a scrap before doing this on your project.

Post Edited 2/7/2010 - This post has been added to the Canadian Jamone team blog - Janome Life. It also gives you more great tips on using the binding foot.

DIY Couture

The latest issue of frankie (i love it!) makes mention of DIYcouture. It's a UK based label that has made it's collection into a set of books so you can make your own. They are really basic designs and very well priced at around $16 (AUD). They have focused on making the experience a breeze and include detailed photo's & instructions to help you through. The website also has a great 'how to' section giving tips on sewing techniques and also how to select the correct fabric. There is nothing not to like here!

Today's all about bias binding

More fabulous bias binding colours have been added to the online store. This bias is a high quality polycotton 20mm single fold bias. 20mm bias is not usually available in retail stores and I have it custom made. Perfect for making bunting, edging quilts or any other sewing project.

This range of Polly Danger bias is handmade using vintage inspired fabrics. It is double folded and 12mm in it's finished state (3 yards per pack)

Or make your own bias with this Clover bias tape maker, again available in The Haby Goddess online store.

Here is a great YouTube video showing you how easy it is to cut your own bias. I did try looking for an easy to follow tutorial on applying bias but was not able to do so. I will prepare one for you later this week.

A weekend wool offer

The wet, cold weather in Melbourne, Australia always provides me with the fantasy of sitting in front of an open fire crocheting (I never actually get the chance to do either!). But if I did, it's these two patterns that I would love to be making.

Michelle from Two and Six has converted a slash vest from two other fantastic patterns into crochet and provides the pattern on her lovely blog.

The pattern for this crocheted bag is only a few USD from Kallie Designs on Etsy.

The Haby Goddess online store has a fantastic range of 11 Heirloom Easy Care 8 ply wool colours and as a winter, weekend special, buy 6 or more balls of yarn and you will receive 2 extra balls at no extra charge. This offer ends Sunday, 27th June, 2010 at 9.00pm (AEST). Just mention in comments which colourways you would like as your gift.

Servicing your sewing machine

How often you need to service your machine will depend on it's workload. A machine that is constantly used should be serviced every 12 months, whereas a machine only occasionally used will only need a service every 2-3 years.

Most local sewing retailers will have a service where you can drop off your machine on an allocated day and it will be collected by the mechanic and returned the following week.

Prices will vary from approximately $99 - $120 (AUD) for a basic service which will including adjusting tensions & timing. Parts & major repairs will be on top of this cost. In most cases if the mechanic suggests that something additional needs to be done, you will be notified of the price before they go ahead.

So what can you do in the mean time to keep your machine in great shape and sewing smoothly?

• Most sewing machines & overlockers come with their own little compartment to house a few basic tools including screwdrivers, spanners & a soft brush.
• Make sure the machine is unplugged.
• The most basic DIY machine servicing would include removing the plate that covers the bobbin case with a screwdriver. Either using a vacuum or brush, remove all lint & threads that may be caught up in the crevice around & under the bobbin.
• Open up the needle bar & light cover & clean as above. Change your needle.
• Clean the teeth on the bottom plate on the machine.
• You can add a drop of sewing machine oil to moving parts but don't use to much as it will mark your fabric on the next project. It's best to wipe off all excessive oil with a cloth and then run a scrap piece of fabric through to make sure it sews clean.

Prevention of problems.

• Try to keep your machine in a dust or moisture free area when not in use. A simple cover will help.

Beautiful imagery

Some blogs keep you coming back for the exquisite beauty of their photography. A Creative Mint is one of those. Here's just a few haby inspired images taken from Leslie's beautiful blog.

Enjoy your day!

Mastering the button hole attachment

I love this sewing machine attachment more than any. It looks complicated but it's not - it actually does all the work for you. Obviously, all machines are different and their button hole functions will not be the same. I have a very basic, no-frills machine and the above attachment was included. Check your manuals to see which foot makes buttonholes on your machine.

• Select your buttons and place one in the attachments gauge. This will determine the length in which the button hole needs to be.
• Refer to your manual or in my case, the lid which houses the attachments, it also has a legend of settings. Change your machine to the appropriate settings.
• On my machine, there is a lever just behind the needle. Pull it down into position - it should sit nicely behind the front section of the button hole attachment.
• Practise making a button hole on a scrap piece of fabric.

• Once you have had a practise on scrap, mark in chalk where you would like your button holes to be. It works in reverse - so the marking should be the bottom of your button hole.
• Then sew, slowly. It should work automatically, making the correct sized hole as per the button being held in the gauge. My attachment does a complete button hole in one go, yours may be a little different.
• With your unpick - carefully cut the fabric inbetween the two ends.
• And your button hole is done!

Does your machine do button holes differently to this?

Using Chalk Cloth

When you think of chalk cloth, you generally think of using it for kid's activity products, but there's so much more you can do with it. Here are just a few ideas - what it can be used for, tutorials & where you can buy it.

• This Clutter Crates Set by SouthHouseBoutique on etsy will organise your work space in style.
• Reusable Chalk Cloth Gift Tags- Turquoise Spirals by Teris Treasure
• LilBDesigns has created adorable laminated cotton & chalkcloth door hangers to leave your notes
• A reversible square Chalk Splat Mat Square chalkydoodles
• Never mix up your stem ware again with SouthHouseBoutique
• And Blue Pearls , again on etsy, create beautiful chalk cloth labels for your jars. I love these detailed Tutorials :
• The Oilcloth Alfresco Series, NO-SEW Chalk Cloth Bunting! by Oilcloth Addict
• Back to School Tutorial Series --- Desk Dots by Oilcloth Addict
• Chalk Mat with Storage Pocket Tutorial by Maggie Muggins Designs
• Make a reversible placemat by Smashed Peas & Carrots
  A couple of places to pick up some of this amazing fabric:
• Online : I just love that fabric (AUS) & Vogue Fabrics (US) both carry this fabric.

Laminating your fabric

There are many laminated fabrics and oilcloths available from retailers but you can also laminate your own with a clear iron on vinyl. After a long absence, this Heat N Bond Vinyl product has now been re-stocked in the online store. Today, I thought I would quickly run through how easy it is to use.

I precut the fabric I was wanting to cover (in this instance a bib) and ironed all creases from it. Then cut a piece of vinyl from the roll to cover the fabric you wish to cover.

• Peel the backing from the vinyl and place over the fabric. It is slightly tacky but easy enough to move around. Starting at one edge, use your hand to flatten the vinyl over the fabric removing any air bubbles.
• Cut around the fabric outline before bonding it with the iron or the vinyl will also stick to your ironing board.
• Using the vinyl backing paper, place it over the fabric and iron with a medium dry heat (no steam) until it is fused.

Here's some other tips.

• The image above shows how I have not taken care to make sure all threads were not under the vinyl before bonding.
• When sewing with the vinyl, using a walking foot or Teflon foot will make it easier. It is not as thick as an oilcloth or commercial laminated fabric so it is a little easier to sew with.
• You can also cover the back side of fabric also - however in this case I will be adding a fabric backing to the bib.
• It can be washed (instructions say to hand wash) - but no tumble drying. You can wipe down with a damp cloth.
• When ironing make sure you always use protective paper or a piece of smooth fabric.
• Use this vinyl on bibs, aprons, bags, homewares or books.