Adding bias to the inside edge of a garment is one of my favourite finishes. It gives a professional look as there are no hems left exposed, it is softer against the skin than a seam plus the bias trim does not show from the front of your garment. It can also act as a casing for elastic. I mainly use this technique for around arm holes and necklines.
- Start and sew on your bias as you normally would. Opening out the bias, right sides together and sewing in the first crease. Leave a bias tail at the beginning for joining your bias at the end.
- When you come to the end, cut an additional tail of bias and fold the two ends and mark where they should meet. Leave a tiny gap between the two.
- Open both pieces of bias up and match the dots and sew together as you normally would when joining bias.
- When turned over, if dots match then it should fit nicely . Finish off sewing.
The difference is here. When you turn over your binding, instead of only going half way, take it all over to your wrong side of fabric and press it flat.
Sew your topstitch which should evenly catch the binding underneath.