How to make an inverted pleat pocket

Pockets are not only functional but they can add decoration & contrast to any garment.

This tutorial will show you how to do an inverted pleat pocket with a contrasting fabric.  Sounds complicated but it's not ~ trust me!

Cut your 3 pieces of fabric. (for a finished pocket measuring 13cm wide x 14cm in length.)

Main fabric - 26cm x 15cm (cut 1)

Contrasting fabric for inverted pleat 15cm x 5cm (cut 1)

Contrasting fabric for pocket band 14cm x  4cm (cut 1)

Add a light weight interfacing (optional)

Make the contrasting band first. 

Fold fabric in half and sew both ends with a small 3/8 inch seam, clip corners.

Turn in right way and poke out corners, press a small hem and set aside.  This is the size you are making the pocket body to fit.

Place your contrasting strip in centre of main fabric piece & pin.

Sew strip to main body of fabric

Fold in your fabric into pleats equally both sides over the contrasting strip until the required amount is showing. 

You will be governed somewhat by the width of the pocket band. 

Also allow for your turned over margin on the two sides and bottom of pocket.  

Once it is the correct size, pin the pleats to hold.

Fold over and press the outer margins.

Slip the pocket into the opening on the top band. 

DON'T STRESS if they don't fit perfectly.  If the top band is too big, run another seam down the sides.  If the pocket body is too big, take a larger folded margin around the outside. 

Once it is fitting snugly, pin & sew across the top bands bottom edge.

Place the pocket onto your garment, pin and sew around the edge.



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